It’s constructed top-down, with raglan sleeves and knitted in the round. I started with white and went into light pink, darker light pink, dark pink, darker pink, then a hot pink before fading to black. I’m pleased with the ombre effect it produced, although there's a different technique I will use next time in order to make the colours fade together more seamlessly.

The sleeves are super balloon-y and it has a lot of positive ease, so it would definitely be a winter-only garment for me.

The scraps are mostly acrylic but some bits of wool are scattered throughout. The hot pink and black strands are 100% wool so it’s cosy. And it weighs a tonne so it’s a perfect pullover for snuggling up inside of.
​

Now this is by no means a pattern - just a recipe of what I did to make my sweater using a standard raglan construction. I have provided the measurements, but because I've used all sorts of different types of yarn, there's no precise gauge to follow. If you want to have a go at making your own, give it your best shot. Take what you need from my recipe and create your own masterpiece.​​

I used two strands of DK held together which produces an approximate gauge of 15 stitches by 23 rows over 10cm using 6mm needles. I used 5mm needles for the ribbing.​

​Me:
Bust - 90cm
Hips - 95cm
Arm length - 55cm
Height - 169cm

Sweater:
Width - 62cm
Sleeve length - 66cm
Underarm to wrist - 39cm
Length - 64cm

​Cast on 64 stitches on 5mm needles.

Rounds 1-12: 1x1 twisted ribbing.

Switch to 6mm needles.

Rolled neckline:
Fold ribbing over so that the cast on edge is in line with the working stitches.
Pick up and knit cast-on stitches together with the current stitches.

Raglan Increases:
Increase sleeves until you have 74 stitches for each sleeve and 86 stitches each for the front and back sections.

Body:
Work in stockinette until the body reaches about 4 cm shorter than your desired length.

Switch to 5mm needles.

Hem:
Knit in 1x1 ribbing until hem measures 4 cm.
Bind-off using a stretchy method.

Switch back to 6mm needles.

Sleeves:
As you split for the sleeves you will want to do a backwards cast on to add 4 additional stitches for each underarm, giving you a total of 80 stitches for each sleeve.
Knit in stockinette for 28 cm, or 8 cm shorter than desired sleeve length.
K2tog around the whole round and you will end up with 40 stitches.
Repeat for other sleeve.

Switch to 5mm needles.

Cuffs:
Knit in 1x1 ribbing until cuff measures 6.5 cm.
Bind-off using a stretchy method.

​I still have loads of scrap yarn kicking around so I can’t wait to start another scrappy project. Maybe a hat this time, what do you think? Let me know in the comments below if you've ever knitted a scrap yarn project. ♡

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Doll Halter Romper for 38cm Miniland © 2020 Belinda Piper. All rights reserved. FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. V2020.11.05 Please do not print, copy or sell my pattern. Small batch sales of finished items made from this pattern are permitted, but you must use your own photographs. Credit must be given to Belinda Piper - rose+dot co and link to roseanddotco.com on your listings. 

FRONT

CO 12 sts
1 Knit all stitches. (12)
2 K3, P6, K3. (12)
3-6 Repeat rows 1-2 another 2 times. (12)
7 K3, M1R, Kto last 3 sts, M1L, K3. (14)
8 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (14)
9-12 Repeat rows 7-8 another 2 times. (18)
13 K3, M1R, K to last 3 sts, M1L, K3. (20)
14 K3, M1R, P to last 3 sts, M1L, K3. (22)
15-18 Repeat rows 13-14 another 2 times. (30)
19 Knit all stitches. (30)
20 K3, P to last 3 sts, K3. (30)
21-24 Repeat rows 19-20 another 2 times. (30)

There should now be 12 garter ridges at the front of your work.

25 Knit all stitches. (30)
26 Purl all stitches. (30)
27 K12, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K12. (28)
28 Purl all stitches. (28)
29 K11, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K11. (26)
30 Purl all stitches. (26)
31 K10, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K10. (24)
32 Purl all stitches. (24)
33 K9, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K9. (22)
34 Purl all stitches. (22)
35 K2TOG, K6, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K6, K2TOG. (18)
36 P2TOG, P to last 2 sts, P2TOG. (16)
37 K2TOG, K3, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K3, K2TOG. (12)
38 Repeat row 36. (10)
39 K2TOG, SSK, K2, K2TOG, K2TOG. (6)
40 P2TOG, P2, P2TOG. (4) 

Working on the first 2 sts only, knit icord for 20cm. Pick up and knit remaining 2 sts to make another 20cm long icord. Tie a knot in the end of each icord. 

24 Knit all stitches. (30)
25 Purl all stitches. (30)
26 K14, K3TOG, K13. (28)
27 Purl all stitches. (28)
28 K13, K3tog, K12. (26)
29 Purl all stitches. (26)
30 K12, K3TOG, K11. (24)
31 Purl all stitches. (24)
32 K11, K3TOG, K12. (22)
33 Purl all stitches. (22)
​34 K2TOG 11 times. (11) 

Cast off using Picot Bind Off for a decorative edge, or using regular cast off. Seam the sides of the romper together using mattress stitch along the stockinette section only. Block gently if required.
​

​For any enquiries relating to this pattern, please contact me below.

Happy knitting!

Belinda x

DISCLOSURE: THIS POST MAY CONTAIN AFFILIATE LINKS, MEANING I GET A COMMISSION IF YOU DECIDE TO MAKE A PURCHASE THROUGH MY LINKS, AT NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU. THANK YOU FOR SUPPORTING MY BLOG :)

Pencil Cup Cosy Crochet Pattern © 2021 Belinda Piper. All rights reserved. FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. V2021.12.16 Please do not print, copy or sell my pattern. Small batch sales of finished items made from this pattern are permitted, but you must use your own photographs. Credit must be given to Belinda Piper - rose+dot co and link to roseanddotco.com on your listings.

NOTES

• US abbreviations

• Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner

• Before commencing the pattern, ensure you work a swatch in order to meet gauge. You may need to substitute the recommended hook size.

• This pattern has been designed to fit a standard 400g tin can with a circumference of 23cm, diameter of 7.5cm and height of 11cm. This design can be adjusted to suit a smaller or larger tin by reducing or increasing the number of rounds of the base circle.

• CH1 at beginning of each round does not count as a ST.

• If you are confident in continuous crochet in the round, you can perform that for rows 8-30. Instead of joining with a SLST at the end of the round, place a marker in the first stitch you completed, continue in pattern and move the marker at the end of each round. This gives the cosy a seamless finish. Just ensure that your spike stitches are in the same formation as you go around. You can find a tutorial for continuous rounds here: https://youtu.be/fWQx0_Wm14U?t=240

INSTRUCTIONS
​
Using 5mm crochet hook, make a magic ring. If you are not sure how to make a magic ring, I have a demonstration video here: https://youtu.be/JXXHUwFz7po

Round 1 - CH1, SC 6 into ring, SL ST into 1st SC, pull end of yarn to secure the ring. (6)
Round 2 - CH1, 2SC into same ST, 2SC into each ST, join with SL ST into first SC. (12)
Round 3 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, 2SC in next ST, *SC 1, 2SC into next ST*, repeat from * to * another 4 times, join with SL ST to first SC. (18)
Round 4 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 into next ST, 2SC in next ST, *SC into next 2 STS, 2SC into next ST*, repeat from * to * another 4 times, join with SL ST to first SC. (24)
Round 5 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 into next 2 STS, 2SC in next ST, *SC into next 2 STS, 2SC into next ST*, repeat from * to * another 4 times, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Round 6 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next 29 STS, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Round 7 - CH1, SCBLO into same ST, SCBLO into next 29 STS, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Round 8 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next 29 STS, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)

At the end of the next round we will be changing to colour B. If you are unsure how to change colours, I have a tutorial here: https://youtu.be/FFy9cOe2wKA

Round 9 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next 28 STS, change to colour B, SC 1 in next ST, join with SL ST to first SC. Do not cut colour A. (30)

The next round involves the Spike Stitch. When you SPSC you will be working it into the SC directly two rounds below. Here's how I perform the Single Crochet Spike Stitch: https://youtu.be/J65PkuQxHkM
​

​Round 10 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next ST, SPSC into next ST, *SC 1 into next 2 STS, SPSC into next ST*, repeat from * to * another 8 times, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Round 11 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next 29 STS, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Round 12 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next 28 STS, change to colour A, SC 1 in next ST, join with SL ST to first SC. Do not cut colour B. (30)
Round 13 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SPSC into next ST, *SC 1 into next 2 STS, SPSC into next ST*, repeat from * to * another 8 times, SC 1 into next ST, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Rounds 14-15 - Repeat Rounds 8-9
Round 16 - CH1, SPSC into same ST, *SC 1 into next 2 STS, SPSC into next ST*, repeat * to * another 8 times, SC 1 into next 2 STS, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Rounds 17-18 - Repeat Rounds 11-12

Round 19 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next ST, SPSC into next ST, *SC 1 into next 2 STS, SPSC into next ST*, repeat from * to * another 8 times, join with SL ST to first SC. (30)
Rounds 20-21 - Repeat Rounds 14-15
Round 22 - Repeat Round 13
Rounds 23-24 - Repeat Rounds 11-12
Round 25 - Repeat Round 16
Round 26-27 - Repeat Round 20-21
Rounds 28-29 - repeat round 10-11

Place the can into the cosy to check the height, you may need to do an extra round after you complete round 30.

Round 30 - CH1, SC 1 into same ST, SC 1 in next 29 STS, join with SL ST to first SC, fasten off, weave in ends.
​

You can customise this pattern and have fun with different colour combinations. Try increasing or decreasing the number of rows between colour changes, or try performing the spike stitch at different intervals.
​

A chunky hat with a matching cowl. Using chunky yarn, this pattern works up quickly. The strand of lace weight mohair gives the hat and cowl a funky marled effect. 

​I’m so excited to bring you my first ever crochet design! 

This little sweater is designed to fit the 38cm Miniland and 34cm Minikane Dolls. It has a simple design for a classic look, or you can add your own flair by doing contrast ribbing or using striped yarn.

You only need about 100 metres of 8ply/DK weight yarn, so it’s perfect for using up those leftovers from previous projects!

​

Miniland Doll Sweater Crochet Pattern © 2021 Belinda Piper. All rights reserved. FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. V2021.10.25 Please do not copy or sell my pattern. Small batch sales of finished items made from this pattern are permitted, but you must use your own photographs. Credit must be given to Belinda Piper - rose+dot co and link to roseanddotco.com on your listings. 

​A basic crochet sweater with a circular yoke which is constructed top-down and worked in the round. It features a ribbed crew neck, cuffs and hem.

A comfy and cosy bonnet that kids of all ages will love to wear.
Knitted in super chunky yarn, this bonnet has the texture of a marshmallow. It is worked flat and then joined to knit in the round.
The pattern includes sizing for babies of all ages and two adult sizes.

SIZES
Newborn 32cm/12.5” (0-3 months 36cm/14”, 3-6 months 39cm/15.5”, 6-9 months 41cm/16”, 9-12 months 42cm/16.5”, 12-24 months 44cm/17.5”, Woman 55cm/21.5”, Man 58cm/23”) head circumference.
Measure the circumference of the head from the hairline to the top of the neck and choose the size closest to the measurement.

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